Skin Anatomy And The Aging Process

For those of you that often ask me about skin care products  and their efficacy, I thought it would be useful to understand the anatomy of the skin.

With a tremendous amount of products available today, it is common to be overwhelmed.  Below should offer some insight as to why certain ingredients perform better then others.

• Strateum Corneum:  This is the outermost layer of the skin.  With age, the surface becomes more dull, lack luster and dehydrated.  Microscopically this layer appears as a brick and mortar structure.  The bricks being dead skin cells, and mortar as skin lipids.  These lipids are large molecules on the skin surface that hold water.   With age these dead cells get thicker, shed less rapidly and lipids diminish holding less water/moisture in the skin.  The result?  Skin is dehydrated, less capable of retaining water and wrinkles become more visible, skin lacks luster and healthy glow diminished.  Solution? Dissolve surface skin cells with natural AHA’s (alpha hydroxy fruit acids), increase moisture with natural hyaluronic acid in your face creams and toners and replenish fatty acids for the lipid layer.   Alpha hydroxy acids will gently exfoliate the skin on a daily basis improving lipid retention and stimulating collagen to reduce the appearance of wrinkles.  Hyaluronic acid will attract moisture and bind it to the skin.   Omega Fatty Acids replenish moisture and reduce inflammation, a leading cause of aging.
• Epidermis: This skin layer contains 2 types of cells.   Squamous cells (uppermost) and basal cells (lowermost).  Younger thicker skin has a thicker, heartier epidermis.  However, sun exposure and the aging process flattens these cells over time.  The good news?  Performance ingredients today can “plump up” this layer to improve volume, texture and skin radiance.  Natural hyaluronic acid, amino peptides,  and collagen enhancing botanicals are some of the most effective skin care ingredients to enhance skin volume.
• Dermis: The layer “where trouble begins”.   This layer is found below the epidermis.   Whereas the epidermis is mostly cells, the dermis is mostly fiber and fluid (much like a plant).  Fibers= collagen and elastin.  Fibers are well organized good fillers that provide a plump, full appearance.  Fluids= Hyaluronic Acid (yes that again).  Hyaluronic acid occurs naturally in the skin and diminishes as we age.   A wrinkle is an area of skin in which the fibrous content had declined causing a groove or depression in the skin.   This lack of fibers leads to sagging and decreased volume of the skin.   The scientific term for this deterioration is “solar elastosis” which would allude to the fact that the damage is “sun” induced, correct?  This can be true,  but  hormonal changes along with free radical damage as well as other factors can also contribute to this process.   Solution: Avoid sun damage, use antioxidants and replenish Hyaluronic acid.  You guessed it!  Natural Hyaluronic acid acts as a sponge to hold water in and hydrate while keeping the skin plump and full while reducing creases and sagging.  Antioxidants are essential to prevent free radical damage that is caused by sun exposure, stress, and environmental factors.   Antioxidants are found in the form of vitamins (C, CoQ10, Resveratrol), botanicals (green tea, pomegranate, acai, amla) and more.  Each type of antioxidant offers it’s own unique properties in addition to combating free radical damage.  For example stable C is regenerative, CoQ10 is firming, Licorice Root also reduces inflammation and discoloration……you get the deal.

Summary:
1. Skin requires mild exfoliation (aha’s) and lipid replenishment (Omega fatty acids) as we age.
2. Lack of Collagen, Elastin and Hyaluronic Acid affect the aging process and diminish over time.
3. Focus on Ingredients to build collagen (amino peptides), increase volume (hyaluronic acid) and improve water content of the skin.
4. Protect with Antioxidants internally and externally.  Stabilized Vit. C, resveratrol, Alpha Lipoic Acid, CoQ10, and organic fruit extracts are ideal choices.
5.  Sleep well, exercise regularly and include meditation in your daily regimen.  Stress reduction will benefit you and prevent accelerated aging.
6. Avoid synthetic ingredients and preservatives in your products.  For your health and skin avoid processed and artificial ingredients.  You will notice the difference when you switch to pure and natural products.

Be well!

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